Bringing your new family member home.
Shipping is available through Continental but it is not available to
everyone. Prices have changed again the price to ship starts at $160.00.
This price update is 2/08/2008 Sorry! There is an additional cost for
the kennel or carrier again price will depend on the size that will be
needed to ship your baby. The price will range from $30 to $75.
everyone. Prices have changed again the price to ship starts at $160.00.
This price update is 2/08/2008 Sorry! There is an additional cost for
the kennel or carrier again price will depend on the size that will be
needed to ship your baby. The price will range from $30 to $75.
Question: Is shipping unsafe or stressful for my bird?
I have shipped many birds, and so far I have never had a problem. The birds have arrived safe
and sound. Most hand fed babies will come out of the carrier willingly and do not seem to be
stressed. If your bird does not come out willingly, please don't worry that he is not a friendly
bird, it's just that just like humans birds all react differently. This is very important to remember,
as it is your first step in understanding your bird.
Question: What do I do with my bird when I first bring him home?
When you first pick your bird up at the airport he may be tired from his journey. Some aren't,
they will be right at the front of the carrier looking for love and attention. If this is the case and
the bird steps right out and onto your hand when you open the carrier then go ahead and spend a
few minutes with him before putting him into his new cage. If he is reluctant to come out of the
carrier then give him a dish of food and water and try to let him come out on his own. This builds
trust as you are not making him come out of his "safe" place by force, you are letting him do it on
his own time. You can even put the open carrier on the floor of his cage if it is big enough.
Question: When can I hold my bird after I bring him home?
When you first bring your bird home and get him into his new cage, you want to watch and make
sure he is eating before you do anything else with him. I advise a large selection of food to begin
with. Give him pellets, fresh foods and a good seed mix or millet to encourage him to eat. Some
birds may not eat for a day or even two, others will eat right away. At first it is very important to
keep his environment outside of the cage stable. Do not let large crowds, active children and
other pets disturb him. Give him time to take in his new surroundings and see where he is. Be
sure the food is in a place where he can find it easily.
Question: How do I first properly establish a relationship with my bird?
When you approach your bird the first time he may just happily hop up onto your hand or he may
be shy and need a little time to get to know you. All birds are different, just like people. Use the
'step up' command every time you approach your bird. Hold your fingers together horizontally
with your thumb tucked down, which leaves your index finger available for the bird to perch on.
If the bird is reluctant to step up then press firmly against the top of his legs where they meet his
belly. This will throw him a little off balance; he will automatically step up onto your hand to
regain it. If he comes forward with his beak or otherwise threatens you with it, it is crucial that
you do not pull your hand back. Doing so gives control to the bird and he will very very quickly
learn he can intimidate you. Even the tamest birds may test your at first. It's just like having a
two year old with an attitude and a beak! If you or the bird feel fearful or uncomfortable with this
approach then you may start out much slower by talking gently to him, feeding him treats by hand
and stroking him where he will allow it, even if it is only the tip of his tail or his toes through the
bars.
Question: What are other things to avoid which may cause bad habits?
Play stands: Your bird may need to learn to stay on a play stand. If he flies or climbs off then
immediately tell him "No" in firm voice, make him step up onto your hand and put him back onto
the play stand. Ignore him until he is back on the stand, at which point he can have attention
again. If he continues to fly off the stand they put him back in his cage until another time. Be
patient, they learn!
Food: Birds can develop screaming problems because their owners give them table food every
time they ate in front of the bird. This is okay to do if the food is healthy and you plan on doing it
every single time he sees you eating for the rest of your life! Birds are flock animals and they like
to eat together. If you train him to eat with you then he will always expect it. Once you stop or
have a meal that consists of food he can't have, you may end up with your flock buddy screaming
at you for his share.
Stepping up: This command is very necessary.
Practice it over and over until it is written in stone! Do not let him come out of the cage on his
own, make him step up on your hand to come out. You may also want to teach him to step up
onto a perch, this is especially good for larger birds that may one day be in a cranky mood and
don't want to get onto your hand. Be sure not to pull your hand away in fear, don't let anyone else
do it either. Once you decide to make the bird step up you need to carry it through.
I have shipped many birds, and so far I have never had a problem. The birds have arrived safe
and sound. Most hand fed babies will come out of the carrier willingly and do not seem to be
stressed. If your bird does not come out willingly, please don't worry that he is not a friendly
bird, it's just that just like humans birds all react differently. This is very important to remember,
as it is your first step in understanding your bird.
Question: What do I do with my bird when I first bring him home?
When you first pick your bird up at the airport he may be tired from his journey. Some aren't,
they will be right at the front of the carrier looking for love and attention. If this is the case and
the bird steps right out and onto your hand when you open the carrier then go ahead and spend a
few minutes with him before putting him into his new cage. If he is reluctant to come out of the
carrier then give him a dish of food and water and try to let him come out on his own. This builds
trust as you are not making him come out of his "safe" place by force, you are letting him do it on
his own time. You can even put the open carrier on the floor of his cage if it is big enough.
Question: When can I hold my bird after I bring him home?
When you first bring your bird home and get him into his new cage, you want to watch and make
sure he is eating before you do anything else with him. I advise a large selection of food to begin
with. Give him pellets, fresh foods and a good seed mix or millet to encourage him to eat. Some
birds may not eat for a day or even two, others will eat right away. At first it is very important to
keep his environment outside of the cage stable. Do not let large crowds, active children and
other pets disturb him. Give him time to take in his new surroundings and see where he is. Be
sure the food is in a place where he can find it easily.
Question: How do I first properly establish a relationship with my bird?
When you approach your bird the first time he may just happily hop up onto your hand or he may
be shy and need a little time to get to know you. All birds are different, just like people. Use the
'step up' command every time you approach your bird. Hold your fingers together horizontally
with your thumb tucked down, which leaves your index finger available for the bird to perch on.
If the bird is reluctant to step up then press firmly against the top of his legs where they meet his
belly. This will throw him a little off balance; he will automatically step up onto your hand to
regain it. If he comes forward with his beak or otherwise threatens you with it, it is crucial that
you do not pull your hand back. Doing so gives control to the bird and he will very very quickly
learn he can intimidate you. Even the tamest birds may test your at first. It's just like having a
two year old with an attitude and a beak! If you or the bird feel fearful or uncomfortable with this
approach then you may start out much slower by talking gently to him, feeding him treats by hand
and stroking him where he will allow it, even if it is only the tip of his tail or his toes through the
bars.
Question: What are other things to avoid which may cause bad habits?
Play stands: Your bird may need to learn to stay on a play stand. If he flies or climbs off then
immediately tell him "No" in firm voice, make him step up onto your hand and put him back onto
the play stand. Ignore him until he is back on the stand, at which point he can have attention
again. If he continues to fly off the stand they put him back in his cage until another time. Be
patient, they learn!
Food: Birds can develop screaming problems because their owners give them table food every
time they ate in front of the bird. This is okay to do if the food is healthy and you plan on doing it
every single time he sees you eating for the rest of your life! Birds are flock animals and they like
to eat together. If you train him to eat with you then he will always expect it. Once you stop or
have a meal that consists of food he can't have, you may end up with your flock buddy screaming
at you for his share.
Stepping up: This command is very necessary.
Practice it over and over until it is written in stone! Do not let him come out of the cage on his
own, make him step up on your hand to come out. You may also want to teach him to step up
onto a perch, this is especially good for larger birds that may one day be in a cranky mood and
don't want to get onto your hand. Be sure not to pull your hand away in fear, don't let anyone else
do it either. Once you decide to make the bird step up you need to carry it through.
